What base settings should I be running for my vehicle?
You have purchased an Electronic Jet Kit. Like carb jet kits in the past, the more you modify, the more responsibility you take in getting your fuel curve right. All controllers come pre-programmed for typical stage 1 modifications meaning an exhaust pipe change and air filter change. We recommend to install the product and drive your vehicle with these settings before making any adjustments. After the initial ride you should get a feel of how your bike is responding and can start fine tuning from there as necessary.
We do not provide specific settings for various combinations of modifications. There are simply too many combinations in existence and we usually do not receive the feedback from customers when everything is running right. DP now offers the SAFR diagnostic tool. We can help dial in your vehicle if you rent the diagnostic tool. View SAFR information here.
NOTE: You are probably not trying to win a drag race where everything needs to be perfect. There is a lot of room in tuning a vehicle to have it run just fine. Every rider is perfectly able to tune their own vehicle.
My fuel mileage has dropped considerably. What mode should I adjust?
Fuel mileage and achieving the best performance usually ends up being a compromise one way or the other. Most vehicles already come a little lean from the factory to achieve the best fuel mileage and to pass emissions. When you start modifying your vehicle then most of the time you lean out the fuel mixture even more. To tune your vehicle and have it operate smoothly you will end up adding fuel. Adding fuel to achieve the best performance tends to result in lower fuel mileage. In rare instances though some riders may experience an increase in fuel mileage.
The GREEN mode in controllers has the largest affect on the fuel mileage. The GREEN mode adjusts the cruising fuel where most riders spend the majority of their time running under this condition. Lower your GREEN mode light setting half a light and compare your fuel mileage results.
I'm experiencing popping. What can I adjust on my controller?
Popping issues should always start with an inspection of your exhaust system for air leaks first and then consider fuel tuning adjustments. The problem normally is AIR getting into the exhaust system. By adding more fuel you can see a reduction in backfiring (popping) but that isn't fixing the problem and it usually results in drivability and/or mileage issues. It is always best to eliminate the cause (AIR) rather than changing the effect by adding more fuel.
Typically, the mode to adjust on the controllers for popping issues is the YELLOW mode. Some applications have a de-accelerating fueling mode which can be adjusted to help cure decel popping. If the decel mode is not present, then try adjusting the YELLOW mode up 1 light setting and note the results. If things do not change or get worse then try lowering the setting. If you continue to experience problems then please navigate to your vehicle in the product section and check for advanced troubleshooting notes. Please feel free to contact us if the problem persists.
I see Green/Red flashing lights when the key is on. What's wrong with my controller?
NOTHING if you are just turning your key on. Please START your vehicle.
For our GEN 3 controllers if the LED in position #1 blinks GREEN and the LED in position #8 blinks RED this means there is NO INJECTOR SIGNAL being inputted.
For our GEN 3.5 controllers the combination will be GREEN at #1 and also GREEN at #8 to mean there is NO INJECTOR SIGNAL being inputted.
This display can be seen on some vehicles when just turning the key on to the vehicle. DP controllers are powered up through the connection to the injector. If the key on supplies power to the injector and the controller is properly grounded then you will see the NO INJECTOR SIGNAL display. Without the vehicle running there should be no injector signal generated.
The NO INJECTOR SIGNAL can also be displayed upon de-acceleration in some vehicles where the stock ECU shuts off the injectors. This is normal for most applications.
The most rare case of the display be shown is if an error occurred in installation where the channel 1 connectors are loose or there is a possible break in the harness wiring. If you see the display and your vehicle will not start then please check the YELLOW wire from the controller to the injector for any breaks.
How do I determine if I have a GEN 3 or GEN 3.5 controller?
You will need to inspect the following:
GEN 3 controllers will have a black rubber plug on the back of the unit. This plug covers the programming port for the controller. Also the RED power wire is several locations away from the BLACK ground wire. CARB legal GEN 3 controllers will NOT have the plug. If your unit says CARB legal on it then you will need to inspect the wire locations.
GEN 3.5 controllers will have the RED power wire and BLACK ground wire directly next to each other coming out of the controller.
GEN 3 wire scheme layout
GEN 3.5 wire scheme layout
I have a mode set at a setting of 0.5 or 8. Can I get more adjustment?
The code within a Dobeck controller may be restricting your range of adjustment. If you have maxed out any of the modes to the left (setting of 0.5) or to the right (setting of 8) then please contact us about a re-flash for more adjustment. Programming for all controllers are sent out to handle the most common modifications and keep the best resolution for our 15 adjustments. We can certainly offer you more range and possibly point you in the right direction.
Re-flashes are handled by our technical department through the warranty returns. The only cost is for shipping both ways.
The GREEN zone may only have a range of 0 to 30%. A light setting of 8 would mean you are adding 30% of fuel. We can certainly re-flash your controller to change the GREEN zone to have a range of 30% to 60%.
Can I use dielectric grease on your harness connections?
YES, BUT NOT ON THE ACTUAL CONNECTOR TERMINALS / PINS!!!
Dielectric grease is a NON-CONDUCTIVE, silicone-based grease that is designed to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. The use of dielectric grease is widely misused among shops and end users. Dielectric grease CAN be applied on the back of connectors where the wire enters to help seal the connector from moisture. Dielectric grease SHOULD NEVER be applied on the terminals / pins inside the connectors.